Tixkokob is a major hicktown (Karina affectionately compares it to Payson, UT), and we were the only gringos in the whole city. We received a mixed reception from the townspeople. Some where overwhelmingly friendly, while we got a "You folks aint from around these parts, are ya?" vibe from others.
One shifty (possibly drunk) man followed us around for two hours prior to the show trying to sell us several hundred hammocks; one State Policeman (the kind that carry fully automatic assault rifles and submachine guns while wearing bullet-proof vests) simply said, "Hola....gringos," between his teeth as we passed (which surprised us, because the State Police here are usually really professional, helpful, reasonable and friendly. It's the local cops you have to watch out for!); and one 12-year-old young man named Jesus completely befriended us and watched the whole corrida with us, buying us snacks intermittently (which we compensated him for in the only American money we had on us [for the novelty factor, not the monetary one], about $1.25 in mixed coinage.). The more wear-it-on-the-sleeve mixture of animosity, interest, and hospitality directed at our "Americanness" was actually refreshing.
So, we purchased seats early (locals from the town don't pay, we gather; Mexicans from other towns probably do, but we suspect we paid special American prices [meaning more than anybody else, but still super cheap to us, especially considering that we got the best seats in the house] :D), which are situated on the first-level planks that you can see in the pics, where you dangle your legs off for four hours and lift them in suspense when the horned, angry bulls stampede inches under you or crash into the walls. The entire day turned out to be way more intense than we expected. It was a riot. These pictures are just the tip of the iceberg. *guffaw* We also recommend zooming in, although most of the pics are lower quality because they were taken at a fast speed and from far away. The expressions of he matadors and people in the stands are priceless.
First, we got some shopping done to prepare for a week of hardcore sight-seeing, then off to Tixkokob!
We weren't able to get an official picture of the city sign, so this one had to do.
Here's the big corral/stadium thingy. Yup, two or three days to make.
Here we are in our "seats."
They were playing ranchero music (Mexican country/polka) through loud speakers before the show. Karina is laughing because the song had just stopped, and the singer, through a thick Spanish accent, said in Enlgish, "I'm sorry, but my English is not very good-looking," and then resumed singing in Spanish to the tubas and accordions. Also, she's eating a tasty, sweet treat that our friend Jesus brought to us.
Here he is. He had a crush on Karina. We exchanged written names and address before leaving Tixkokob and he gave Karina a kiss on the cheek (which is also customary here).
The two lighter-skinned kids posing for pictures on the right are matadors from Spain (like the other matadors we saw that night). They are famous around the world for being two of the youngest matadors ever (the youngest is 10), and they were scheduled to fight two nights later in Tixkokob, but we had to miss it.
The village pyrotecnician lit several fireworks before the bulls came out, and he has to be licensed to both buy and operate them in this state.
Then came the Spanish bull-fighters. These guys are the real deal, as you can tell from the tenaciously-clenched buttocks.
First, they carefully inspect their fighting cape/bull-attractors. This matador's expression is great. Btw, the action in this and the following pics took place at the opposite end of the arena.
This guy is less impressed with his cape. "Yawn."
Then they tease the bull for several minutes. It comes out already injured, kinda like Russell Crow at the start of his last fight in Gladiator.
The matador is already bored (and is also only 18 years old).
Then, this armored, stay-puffed marshmallow horseman rides out...
...AND STABS THE BULL IN THE SPINE WITH HIS TRIDENT! (we think to maintain the continuity of "fairness" in the fight)
...WHILE THE BULL FUTILELY HORNS PUFFY'S CLUELESS STEED! (also, those are newspapers stuffed behind the horse's blinders lol).
The matador reemerges with renewed confidence, and pointy weapons.
This bull is charging at him at full speed. These next shots happened in split seconds...
HOLD!
...HOLD!
NOW!!!!! *STAB*!
RELEASE!!!
More stabbings...and buttocks!
Whew!
"AHHHHHHHHH! I can't believe you just STABBED ME!...AGAIN!" says the bull. "That REALLY HURTS man!" (read the end of this post to find out that Karina and Justin aren't completely inhuman).
More taunting, but now with a sword deftly concealed behind the cape.
"I fart in your general direction!"
"Your mother was a hampster!"
"I am the knight that says 'Ni!'"
"Merely a flesh wound."
...preparing for the killing blow (it actually took him several tries due to his inexperience. The crowd was very upset.).
And the bull keeps coming back for more...
"Bring it!"
"What else you got?!"
"You got a sword in your back! That's what you got!"
WINNAR!
Ok, so, we are animal lovers (even when they're dead and/or dying), and this was shockingly brutal to see live. Yes, it bothered us. We felt bad for the bulls. We cheered for this bull (instead of gasped) when he totally nailed this matador and landed on top of him (no pics, sorry, Justin completely lost his composure). We wish there were another way for people to practice and enjoy this sport that is so important to their history and culture without all of the animals being tortured and murdered (and there probably is a way).
That being said, this was freaking awesome.
1 comment:
Well, if only you had a picture of the matador getting pwned, that'd seal the deal. I AM DISAPPOINT. You guys are sweet.
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